Hoarding Power Blocks
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- PlutoniumLounger
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Hoarding Power Blocks
(In the absence of a Hoardware Forum ...)
The ACER LCD monitor stopped working about 4 months ago. I assumed it was the monitor. A thought strikes me "ping!":
What if the monitor is OK and it's the power block that's at fault?
Obvious solution: Read the rating off the back of the power block and see if I have a similar block here.
The question: What would be "Similar" for these purposes?
Obviously a 100% match is safe and any discrepancy indicates some risk.
My scanner (no drivers for Win7/64) and monitor blocks are listed below. (I have eight other blocks plugged in around my desk).
Canon Scanner 12V 1.25A
ACER LCD monitor 19V 3.16A
To my mind that's no match. Either I'll under-power the monitor or burn out the block.
The other way I'll burn out the scanner or ...
But suppose the scanner block said "18V 3.1A" or "20V 3.1A", a difference of about 5%.
Would it be safe to plug in, solely for the purposes of seeing if the monitor came to life?
The question suggests that I should keep a table of my power block ratings, and, perhaps, never throw away a block that fills a gap in my table.
I paid $50 for the refurbished monitor about 6 years ago. It has served me well. In this example it would not be the end of the world if I burned it, because it's time for me to buy a new (or two) monitor.
(later) Being the parasite that I am, I would also table my Good Neighbour Patty's power blocks, those of my Good Friend Betty, ... you get the idea.
The ACER LCD monitor stopped working about 4 months ago. I assumed it was the monitor. A thought strikes me "ping!":
What if the monitor is OK and it's the power block that's at fault?
Obvious solution: Read the rating off the back of the power block and see if I have a similar block here.
The question: What would be "Similar" for these purposes?
Obviously a 100% match is safe and any discrepancy indicates some risk.
My scanner (no drivers for Win7/64) and monitor blocks are listed below. (I have eight other blocks plugged in around my desk).
Canon Scanner 12V 1.25A
ACER LCD monitor 19V 3.16A
To my mind that's no match. Either I'll under-power the monitor or burn out the block.
The other way I'll burn out the scanner or ...
But suppose the scanner block said "18V 3.1A" or "20V 3.1A", a difference of about 5%.
Would it be safe to plug in, solely for the purposes of seeing if the monitor came to life?
The question suggests that I should keep a table of my power block ratings, and, perhaps, never throw away a block that fills a gap in my table.
I paid $50 for the refurbished monitor about 6 years ago. It has served me well. In this example it would not be the end of the world if I burned it, because it's time for me to buy a new (or two) monitor.
(later) Being the parasite that I am, I would also table my Good Neighbour Patty's power blocks, those of my Good Friend Betty, ... you get the idea.
Last edited by ChrisGreaves on 16 Jul 2011, 11:33, edited 1 time in total.
He who plants a seed, plants life.
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- PlatinumLounger
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Re: Hoarding Power Blocks
I'll assume you mean the power supply transformers or "power Bricks" when you say "blocks?"ChrisGreaves wrote:(In the abscence of a Hoardware Forum ...)
The ACER LCD monitor stopped working about 4 months ago. I assumed it was the monitor. A thought strikes me "ping!":
What if the monitor is OK and it's the power block that's at fault?
Obvious solution: Read the rating off the back of the power block and see if I have a similar block here.
The question: What would be "Similar" for these purposes?
Obviously a 100% match is safe and any discrepancy indicates some risk.
My scanner (no drivers for Win7/64) and monitor blocks are listed below. (I have eight other blocks plugged in around my desk).
Canon Scanner 12V 1.25A
ACER LCD monitor 19V 3.16A
To my mind that's no match. Either I'll under-power the monitor or burn out the block.
The other way I'll burn out the scanner or ...
But suppose the scanner block said "18V 3.1A" or "20V 3.1A", a difference of about 5%.
Would it be safe to plug in, solely for the purposes of seeing if the monitor came to life?
The question suggests that I should keep a table of my power block ratings, and, perhaps, never throw away a block that fills a gap in my table.
I paid $50 for the refurbished monitor about 6 years ago. It has served me well. In this example it would not be the end of the world if I burned it, because it's time for me to buy a new (or two) monitor.
(later) Being the parasite that I am, I would also table my Good Neighbour Patty's power blocks, those of my Good Friend Betty, ... you get the idea.
Voltage must be the SAME.
If it's DC current, the polarity of the plugs must be the SAME. ( of course the type of plugs must be the same )
If the current rating is larger than the old blocks, that's OK. The device will only draw the amount up to it's design rating.
The block must be supplying the proper TYPE of voltage. Some are AC, some are DC. Never interchange AC to DC or vice versa.
BE careful with these ratings. You could well blow out either or both devices with the wrong unit.
BOB
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- UraniumLounger
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Re: Hoarding Power Blocks
Is there some means of testing these transformers and cables using a VOM?
It seems that one could test continuity, voltage, etc. without risking damage to the monitor or other device (if one knows the device spec).
Inquiring minds . . .
It seems that one could test continuity, voltage, etc. without risking damage to the monitor or other device (if one knows the device spec).
Inquiring minds . . .
Bob's yer Uncle
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- PlatinumLounger
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Re: Hoarding Power Blocks
USUALLY, they have at least a minimal spec or rating stamped into the plastic on the brick. Voltage [type and amount] ,amperage and sometimes the polarity of the the plug. [negative tip or positive tip] but not always!BobH wrote:Is there some means of testing these transformers and cables using a VOM?
It seems that one could test continuity, voltage, etc. without risking damage to the monitor or other device (if one knows the device spec).
Inquiring minds . . .
Using the guidelines, you could use a volt meter to check voltage and polarity if it's a DC type. Amperage is the big question mark. If it's not stated, I would not chance just plugging it in and tuning for smoke!
My thought would be to not take a chance on it if you aren't SURE what it is.
They are cheap enough these days and certainly much less than the cost of a new scanner or printer or monitor, etc.
Added: you could certainly check continuity of a cable but there is still the chance of it being intermittent by moving the plug end around.
BOB
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If I agreed with you we'd both be wrong.
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If I agreed with you we'd both be wrong.
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- PlutoniumLounger
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Re: Hoarding Power Blocks
Thanks BOB, yes, transformers of "bricks", and thanks too for all your other comments. I'd considered the old AC/DC trick but hadn't thought of polarity for DC.viking33 wrote:I'll assume you mean the power supply transformers or "power Bricks" when you say "blocks?".
All in all the likelihood of a good match seems rather remote.
Here is my current list (assembled during yesterday as I recabled my office)
Canon Scanner | 12V | 1.25A |
ACER LCD monitor | 19V | 3.16A |
Comstar external drive | 5V | 2.00A |
Sunny external drive | 12V | 2.00A |
DI604 D-Link Router | 12V | 1.25A |
Motorola SB5100 | 12V | 0.75A |
Delta N17908 (Acer netbook) | 19V | 2.15A |
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- PlutoniumLounger
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Re: Hoarding Power Blocks
Bob, Thanks too for these thoughts.viking33 wrote:They are cheap enough these days and certainly much less than the cost of a new scanner or printer or monitor, etc. Added: you could certainly check continuity of a cable but there is still the chance of it being intermittent by moving the plug end around.
I certainly wouldn't have a problem buying a new brick instead of a new monitor - the ACER LCD has served me very well. I was prompted to post by the possibility that it was the brick at fault.
Also, I'd not thought of "wiggling" to see if it is a cable problem. Will do ....
He who plants a seed, plants life.
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- PlutoniumLounger
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Re: Hoarding Power Blocks
Thanks Bob.BobH wrote:Is there some means of testing these transformers and cables using a VOM?
I don't have a voltmeter (I should have one ... hint for Father Christmas).
I have a little flat one-inch diameter orange bulb with two wires which I use for testing to see if a mains wire is live before I go playing with it. It serves only as a binary device (current? yes/no) rather than a quantitative device.
He who plants a seed, plants life.
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- Administrator
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Re: Hoarding Power Blocks
Sounds like a Neon lamp - not at all useful for checking low volts.ChrisGreaves wrote:I have a little flat one-inch diameter orange bulb with two wires which I use for testing to see if a mains wire is live before I go playing with it. It serves only as a binary device (current? yes/no) rather than a quantitative device.
(They take minimal current, so typically act more as a 'Voltage > 70V' indicator than anything else.)
Cheap DVMs (Digital Volt Meters) are pretty, well, cheap these days. Cheap enough to be given away free with some products. If all you want to do is check voltage, I wouldn't spend more than $10 / £6-7 / €6-7 on one.
Leif
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- PlutoniumLounger
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Re: Hoarding Power Blocks
Agreed. Mine is not a globe (as shown in the Wiki) but more like a piece of plastic from the turn-signal indicator on a car, a lens-like device.Leif wrote:(They take minimal current, so typically act more as a 'Voltage > 70V' indicator than anything else.)
One of those tools that, had I bought one 20 years ago, ...Cheap DVMs (Digital Volt Meters) are pretty, well, cheap these days.
OK. Off to the hardware store, me.
He who plants a seed, plants life.
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- UraniumLounger
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Re: Hoarding Power Blocks
Bob's yer Uncle
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- 5StarLounger
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Re: Hoarding Power Blocks
Great idea to create a mini-database for these blocks/bricks/wall warts! Only thing I would add (as suggested earlier) would be tip dimensions.ChrisGreaves wrote: Here is my current list
<pause for research>
Ugh! At least two different national standards, many many possibilities. One breakdown I've seen:
- [ Male | Female ]
- Outside diameter
- Inside diameter
- [Inside | Outside | Tip | Body ] is the positive connector
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Sundog
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- PlutoniumLounger
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Re: Hoarding Power Blocks
Sundog, thanks for the tips (UGH!)Sundog wrote:Only thing I would add (as suggested earlier) would be tip dimensions.
Canon Scanner | 12V | 1.25A | |
ACER LCD monitor | 19V | 3.16A | |
Comstar external drive | 5V | 2.00A | |
Sunny external drive | 12V | 2.00A | |
DI604 D-Link Router | 12V | 1.25A | |
Motorola SB5100 | 12V | 0.75A | |
Delta N17908 (Acer netbook) | 19V | 2.15A | |
Ktec KSAS0241200200HU (Linda’s External HD) | 12v | 2.00A | |
FLY36-5-12 | 12V;5V | 1.5A;1.5A | 4-Socket Female Plug |
NT (Northen Telecom) AD-2038 | 16VAC | 0.250A | |
MDT0361205 | 5V;12V | 2.00A;2.00A | 4-Socket Female Plug |
Interesting that the Northern Telecom brick specifies VAC, which I take to mean Alternating Current is output.
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- PlutoniumLounger
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Re: Hoarding Power Blocks
Hi again Bobviking33 wrote:Voltage must be the SAME.
If it's DC current, the polarity of the plugs must be the SAME. ( of course the type of plugs must be the same )
If the current rating is larger than the old blocks, that's OK. The device will only draw the amount up to it's design rating.
Well!
Waddyaknow!
After I tore a strip off my ISP (habit!), I discovered that the old DLink Router was "off".
No Power.
The brick is dead.
I know the brick is dead because I plugged in Linda's brick for one second - enough to see the router lights come on.
Now I have got "Linda's external hard drive power block", Output 12v 2.0A, whereas the router block read Output 12v 1.5a.
If I understand you, this combination is going to be OK?
(Disclaimer: I'm seeking no-fault advice here. The router is covered with pre-cambrian fossils, and I'm considering upgrading my ISP modem from 1-socket, cabled, to wireless Real Soon Now. If the DLink router does burn out, it has paid its way handsomely.)
He who plants a seed, plants life.
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- PlatinumLounger
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Re: Hoarding Power Blocks
Now I have got "Linda's external hard drive power block", Output 12v 2.0A, whereas the router block read Output 12v 1.5a.
If I understand you, this combination is going to be OK?
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That should be fine, Chris.
Using a brick with a greater "potential" output in amps or milliamps is OK. The device will only draw whatever current it needs, not what the brick can supply.
If I understand you, this combination is going to be OK?
-----------------------------------
That should be fine, Chris.
Using a brick with a greater "potential" output in amps or milliamps is OK. The device will only draw whatever current it needs, not what the brick can supply.
BOB
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If I agreed with you we'd both be wrong.
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If I agreed with you we'd both be wrong.
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- PlutoniumLounger
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Re: Hoarding Power Blocks
Thanks Bob.viking33 wrote:That should be fine, Chris.
Plugging in .... NOW
Note to Loungers: If I don't get back here, Bob's blown me up!
He who plants a seed, plants life.
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- PlatinumLounger
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Re: Hoarding Power Blocks
Earth to Chris, do you copy?ChrisGreaves wrote:Thanks Bob.viking33 wrote:That should be fine, Chris.
Plugging in .... NOW
Note to Loungers: If I don't get back here, Bob's blown me up!
BOB
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If I agreed with you we'd both be wrong.
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If I agreed with you we'd both be wrong.
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- PlutoniumLounger
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Re: Hoarding Power Blocks
viking33 wrote:Earth to Chris, do you copy?
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- PlutoniumLounger
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Re: Hoarding Power Blocks
Hi Bob.viking33 wrote:Using a brick with a greater "potential" output in amps or milliamps is OK. The device will only draw whatever current it needs, not what the brick can supply.
It sometimes takes a few days for all my synapses to align ...
Got this far. A power brick that can supply more amps than required is OK for the device.
Now, how about a power-brick that is rated less-than the device?
A 1.5A power brick with a 2.0A device.
I presume that the device is cuckoo-like going to demand more power than the power-brick can deliver, so one of two things can happen:
(1) the power-brick fries as it tries to squeeze more electrons through its wires or
(2) the device suffers (dropped bits, reduced amplifier volume, less light etc.) because it's just not able to get enough "fuel".
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Re: Hoarding Power Blocks
The most likely result is both of the above.ChrisGreaves wrote:...one of two things can happen:
(1) the power-brick fries as it tries to squeeze more electrons through its wires or
(2) the device suffers (dropped bits, reduced amplifier volume, less light etc.) because it's just not able to get enough "fuel".
StuartR
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- PlutoniumLounger
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Re: Hoarding Power Blocks
So much for Heisenberg!StuartR wrote:The most likely result is both of the above.
Thanks, Stuart.
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